African wax prints are colorful clothing materials commonly used in Africa, especially in West Africa. They are also known as Dutch wax prints, made and influenced from batik, an Indonesian method of dyeing clothes. They are usually sold in lengths of 12 yards (11m) as a full piece or 6 yards (5.5m) as half piece.
History
During the Dutch colonization of the Indonesians, their Dutch merchants got used to the batik technique and decided to use the opportunity to earn more money.
They started the production of the wax prints, having monitored the way it’s been produced, with the hopes of competing with the original batik they met in Indonesia. With different methods, they tried to achieve this new batik material. One method majorly used is the roller printing technology invented in Scotland in the 1780s.
A more successful attempt was the Prévinaire’s attempt. It brought about the mechanical block-printing machine invented in 1843 by Louis-Jérôme Perrot. He also added resin to both sides of the cloth.
However, all these were in vain as the Dutch imitation wax-resist fabrics were not readily accepted in the market, but it received a high demand in West Africa.
The West African soldiers from Dutch had returned in these wears and it had captured the attention of the people. Hence, they begin to make their own with the knowledge they had in Dutch and Indonesia. The success of this trade prompted other manufacturers, including Swiss, Scottish, and English manufacturers to enter the market.
How Ankara prints are made
Everything good had a process, mostly tough processes. Gold was made to pass through high voltage power and fire to come out looking adorable and pleasing to the eyes.
The Dutch wax prints are not different. They are made to pass through tough choices to become the colorful, versatile wear we have today.
First, the wax is melted, and with the use of a block-printing machine, the melted wax is added to the sides of the cloth. It is then submerged into the dye, also known as the indigo-dye bath. This process is repeated, to build up a colored design on the fabric. There is always a need for a wooden stamp block for each design. The machine cracks the wax to create a marble and bubbles effect. The printing machine then adds two or more colors to the fabric.
It is then boiled/washed to remove the wax, which will be reused on other designs.
Finishing touches are then added according to the manufacturer.
Wax prints in West Africa have earned more use than fashion. It has been named after big personalities, after a nation, and named after cities, occasions. It has also served as a non-verbal means of communication among African women, carrying messages.
It has also been a source of wealth for merchants, especially African women. Many women are into large and small-scale wax-prints businesses. These fabrics constitute capital goods for African women. They are often retained based on their perceived market value.
Wax-prints hold more meaning than just making it into outfits.
A Ghanaian print known as speed bird has multiple birds on it. It symbolizes the tricky side of money. You can be poor today and rich tomorrow. Money moves in fast; the same way it leaves.
Another Ghanaian print, ‘Nsu Buru’, means water well. It is a round-like design. The ripples of water that are visible when water is collected from a well are represented by the tiny dots in the design. It means whatever you do in life will impact those around you.
A common print in Nigeria is similar to the Nsu Buru. It is called the Record disc. It is round-like with bubble-like and raindrop designs around the circle. It symbolizes an old vinyl record.
Popular print designs include geometric shapes, plants, flowers, animals e.t.c. Sometimes, a picture of a prominent figure or family member is added to a print to celebrate them.
Recently, a group of Nigerians in diaspora printed the picture of the President and Vice President of the U.S.A, Joe Biden and Kamala Harris, on an Ankara print to support the election.
African is known for its colorful attributes, from the foods to the clothes, to nature. Everything is full of beautiful colors.
So it’s only natural to have African fabrics in colorful prints. The same way we have Ankara in Nigeria, there are other fabrics in other parts of the continent.
Shweshwe belongs to the Southern Africans (South Africa), it’s printed on dyed cotton. Traditionally, it is used for family functions and weddings. Only available in three colors: brown, red and blue.
Baoule is also found in West Africa (Cote d’Ivoire). It is a woven material, hand-woven, and can be used to make bags, shoes, and shirts for men.
Another important fabric is the Kente cloth of Ghana, West Africa. The original Kente cloth is a woven material similar to the Aso-oke of Nigeria and is woven in vibrant colors like yellow, red, green, and blue. The print Kente fabric mimics the woven design and is inexpensive compared to the original Kente cloth which is pricey and reserved for weddings or coronations.
Kitenge in East Africa (Zambia) is another one. It is similar to sarong and Kangas, and often worn around the chest and waist.
Ankara, however, is a widely accepted material in all West Africa. It gained popularity in 2010, although it has been in existence for so many years.
Styles
Ankara prints are versatile and can be made into anything, as it comes in different colors, designs, and patterns. It can be styled into anything, yet retaining the magical feeling it brings.
It is respected by all, both the poor and the rich. It is often used at events. The fabric can define an event, a certain class or sector, and also represents a tribe of marriage.
Ankara can be made into anything, well, close to anything. As it is not limited to just fashion alone, nor to a certain class or gender. So, it can be used by the young, old, rich, and poor. Even buildings benefit from the magic feels.
Ankara is being made into tracksuits, gym wears, just name it. Notable figures have also been spotted wearing Ankara prints in different brands. The likes of Michelle William, Mos Def, Beyonce, Rihanna, Angela Simmons, India Arie, Elle Varner, Anika Noni, Gwen Steffani, Alicia Keys, Kim Kardashian, Draya Michelle, e.t.c.
The likes of Ngozi Iweala and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie have also been taking the prints to the global world.
Now, let’s talk about styles you can achieve with these prints.
Blazers
As Ankara can be worn by both genders, the best pick would be blazers. How amazing will it be to be in sync with your spouse wearing the same Ankara blazer as his? Ankara blazer will make you stand out.
Gowns
A shirt dress, long flare gowns, short trimmed gowns, flare gowns, just name it. Ankara can make it all. Just get your styles ready and watch it turn into your exact imagination.
Hats
Did I mention that Ankara can be made into anything? Yes, hats are included. A beach hat, berets, e.t.c, can be made with Ankara prints.
Shorts and trousers
Imagine wearing a nice neutral top or shirt on beautiful, vibrant wax-print trousers or shorts. A knee-cut pair of shorts in Ankara can take you from zero to ten, likewise the trousers. Ankara palazzo trousers can be paired with a black shirt or any color of your choice.
Jumpsuit
Just like shorts and trousers. Ditch that monotone jumpsuit or plain denim and top for this colorful jumpsuit. You can wear it to a wedding and look like you are there to brag differently.
Two-Piece Outfit
Now, here is where it gets interesting. Either a two-piece with trousers or as skirts. You are given the choice to wear it as it comes. Or pair the top with denim trousers or the trousers/skirts with a top of your choice. You can even switch things up by wearing the top of a different Ankara print on your two-piece trousers. The list for a two-piece Ankara dress is endless.
House decor
I bet you had no idea Ankara can be used as house decorations in the house. Now, think of a wall full of Ankara designs. Think of an Ankara shower curtain, laced with leather protection. You can make bedding out of Ankara. Bedsheets, pillowcases, mats, flower vases. Sofas, tables. Get creative!
Sneakers and bags
Have you ever been to an African store before? A craft shop majorly into making things with Ankara? You will be amazed at how beautiful some Ankara bags and shoes are. You should get one for yourself.
Accessories
Neckpieces, Belts, berets can also be made with Ankara prints.
You can see how versatile Ankara prints are, your next stop should be an African store or fabric store. You shouldn’t be left out!
I really did enjoy this article, I wear Ankara but never was informed of the history. Such a beautiful process to create a wax print.